![]() Any doubts - ASK RGCables please ! they have hydra to test please. They used to output csync 4V TTL (now 0.7V what is OK). RGC in past were supplying csync cables not attenuated - recently their cables follow standart. Will I need to mod all my cables like the ps1 one in order for them to work with the hydra? Here's the list of cables:Ī. all my consoles with cables from RETROGAMINCABLES, most of them with sync on luma. left right pressed - disables "knight rider led effect".middle - HD/LOW PASS filter - default ON.right - scan for active source to the right from active one (if active is far right, no action).left - scan for active source to the left from active one (if active is far left, no action).Hydra doesn`t like and will not lock on scart with TTL csync as it doesn’t follow scart 75ohm standard – nevertheless source connected directly to Your TV works OK.When You have fun, Hydra does plenty of work – let it work. ![]() Hydra loves composite video or luma at pin 20 of scart.Hydra has built in all necessary features No tricky electronics inside as NOT NEEDED.This chip may become very hot and protection will probably brick hydra till one of chips is replaced (NCS2564). If You got hit that moment plugging powered on device, You will damage RGB chip with ESD voltage that may reach thousands of volts (not dangerous for you, but electronics is fragile.). To protect device and not to cut signal`s range, HYDRAs have additional ESD protection diodes, but for a short period of time when scanning for active scart, Hydra is defenseless. Simple and efficent.ĭesigning device, I put much effort into ability to passthrough many types of signals: from composite to component. Since now, HYDRA will detect active scart input and forward all signals to Your monitor. Connect up to 5 computers/consoles to HYDRA, then connect HYDRA to Your TV/Monitor and power on hydra. Everytime, You do it - You damage scart socket inside. Each time, You want to switch system, You have to connect Your machine to Your monitor. And You have only one classical TV/Monitor with one SCART INPUT. Imagine, You have many retro system in use. Dedicted remote sold separately - soon thus You can always use any NEC/ENEC compatible one You may already have - Please, check FAQ tab above.DC/AC 5/2.1 mm power supply connector (asuggested 9V polarity independent) optonal power supply sold separtely - please, check RELATED PRODUCTS tab above.headphones JACK amplified audio ouput (adjustable volume via remote).HQ plexi transparent ( made by me -) at my laser machine).AVR controller with firmware future updates.Improved signal detection histerisis / all cables shall work now/.Extra protections for NCS CHIPS on each scart input."Knight rider" style active scart detection.5 scart inputs ( RGB, s-video, composite).Pl ease READ FAQ TAB above - ALL EXPLAINED !įully automatic SCART switch with full galvanic inputs separation. I DO NOT ANSWER TO QUESTIONS ABOUT RETROGAMINGCABLES ! As a general rule, unless your setup specifically requires otherwise, your target goal is that the cables you use with your consoles will all be outputting a 75 Ohm signal and the target device will also be receiving a 75 Ohm signal." RetroRGBīefore buy, be sure You have proper 75Ohm sync cables. Most displays and processors will require 75 Ohm csync, but some can accept TTL. "Be aware that in the context of retro gaming, there are two types of csync signals: TTL and 75 Ohm.
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